by Molly Boushell and Taylor Gilmore
For the past 17 years, Professor Richard Newton has led UMass Journalism students to the sun-drenched Italian island of Sicily. Students in the three credit Journalism 391R course, otherwise known as the “Sicily class,” have the opportunity to travel to the island for ten days over spring break. The class is limited to 16 students and an application process is required. Half of the class will do photography while the other half does travel writing, and everything builds to the trip. While preference is given to students in the Journalism major, students from all majors and the five colleges are encouraged to apply. Enrollment is based upon academic standing, an application essay, recommendations from faculty, and other factors. Below are two vignettes written by students who went on this year’s trip. For more information about the class, visit the class website.
Etna Erupts
by Molly Boushell
We were warned all semester not to get our hopes up for Mount Etna to erupt. In our professor’s many years of visiting, it had never happened while he was there. That only made it more amazing when, as we made our way by bus to Sicily’s active volcano, plumes of smoke began rising from her peak.
Our guide Rosa pointed it out first. Instantly, heads appeared over the tops of seats, craning and moving back and forth trying to catch a glimpse. Audible “wows” hushed across the bus as each of us locked on to the column of ash in the distance.
After exploring the market in Catania, we piled back on the bus and set our sights on Etna. It looked so close from the blue and orange bus seats, but winding roads stretched out in front of us, demanding patience despite our eagerness.
Brightly colored buildings an arm’s length away from the window became sparser and disappeared as we made our way up the mountain. The changing landscape was a dead giveaway that we were getting closer.
Around the last hairpin turn, we discovered active volcanoes and ski resorts have a lot in common. Forrest green lifts stretched up to the top, lodge-like buildings lined the road, but here black rock and ash covered the slopes where snow should be. The only white to be seen was at the top, where Etna erupted against a bright blue sky.
Hiking around, craters dipped into the surface where heat from magma escaped in the past. The basalt was like grains of sand in some places, gravel in others, baseball sized, and even larger. The only hint at the richness of the surface was shocks of yellowing tall grass, marking the inevitable return of life.
Looking out the window at volcanic black basalt I reminded myself that this was reality.
Surreality takes hold where ashy desolation and blue sky meet, where one-room homes stand buried up to pitched roofs. Was it only years, or decades, since the lava had swallowed the structure in its destructive youth?
After snapping a few final pictures, it was time to leave. On the bus, crackling speakers overhead provides the soundtrack to the deafening silence. The song is barely recognizable in it’s stripped down acoustic version, but the vocals are unmistakable.
“This place about to bloooww-oh-oh-oh-oh-oh-oh-oh-oh…”
Ke$ha’s performance, no glitter, just grit, snaps me back to reality. A grin cracks across my face at the irony. Maybe in theory Etna wasn’t supposed to blow this week, but we were all glad it did.
Castelbuono
by Taylor Gilmore
There are certain places that will stay in your heart forever. When you close your eyes, you can imagine being there, and how this special place made you feel. During a trip to Sicily with my journalism class, I added a small town called Castelbuono to my list of places that I will always remember.
I was not expecting to fall in love with Castelbuono, but as I stepped off the bus and looked through the arch that acted as a gateway to the town, I knew I would never want to leave. I could see down the narrow, cobblestone road, into the center of town, the “piazza”, as they say. The street was bordered with colorful buildings with iron balconies full of flower boxes and covered in hanging laundry. The piazza was filled with local Italians, mostly older men, enjoying the beautiful weather and watching us tourists snap pictures, and sometimes posing for us.
In a true Italian fashion, we were immediately handed food to sample from a local bakery – a delicious panettone with coffee and pistachio spread. As I enjoyed what could possibly be my new favorite food, I noticed that beyond the buildings of Castelbuono I could see the rolling green mountains in the distance. It looked like a movie set; it was too beautiful to be real.
Wandering the streets of Castelbuono is an unparalleled experience. Everything is incredibly interesting and different; like nothing I have seen before, and nothing I will ever see again. I desperately tried to absorb as much as I could because although I hope I can return someday, I won’t be with this group of students who I now call friends.
Since the Sicily program has visited the town multiple times over the years, we have photos of people that past students have met. Our professor gave us the challenge of giving the people in the photo their picture.
We approached strangers and pointed to the photos, hoping they could help us. To our surprise, everybody knew everybody. We were guided through the streets of Castelbuono by locals, and introduced to the people in the photos. Many remembered the students who had come before us who had asked to take their picture. I hope that next year, they will remember us, too.
The town’s shoemaker was especially excited to see us. In his tiny nook of an office, almost hidden from the street, his walls are covered with photos of himself over the years, sitting in his office, that students have taken and mailed to him from America.
We also found four American brothers who own “The American Bar,” and moved here when they were 17 after falling in love with Castelbuono when they visited during their childhood. They gave us a tour and showed us how they make their cream puffs, including a taste test.
The people of Castelbuono create a warm and welcoming atmosphere that drew me in. Finding the people in the photos seemed like an impossible task to complete in a strange town with an extreme language barrier. I don’t speak a word of Italian, but it helped me to meet different people and hear incredible stories I wouldn’t have had the chance to if I didn’t approach them.
Traveling is about stepping out of your comfort zone, embracing the unexpected, learning from the people you meet, and growing from your experiences. My time in Castelbuono earned a spot in my heart, and if you ever have the chance to visit, I can guarantee it will find it’s way into your heart, too.
Molly Boushell can be contacted at [email protected]. Taylor Gilmore can be contacted at [email protected].