I am satisfied with my classes: Français Orale, Langue Français, Les Médias en France, and Le Stage. In my oral class, my professor really pushes us to speak energetically, rhythmically, and with correct pronunciation. We frequently memorize dialogues that we write in class or perform poems like Pour Toi Mon Amour by Jacques Prévert. At first, I felt a bit out of my comfort zone, but the interactive class style has really improved my speaking. My French grammar class has been the most helpful, since my professor has reviewed the plus-que-parfait, conjunctions, and many other areas of confusion. My professor is a charming young woman in her thirties who roles her r’s and has a spunky sense of humor, which keeps me awake at 9 a.m. My media class has been quite interesting. I have realized that the American and French presses are really different, which is most apparent in the strong circulation of liberal and leftist newspapers in France.

Lastly, once a week I lead discussions in English at a French high school, l’École Pascal. We discuss American culture including TV shows, holidays, and current events. The boys seem to be most curious about Obama, and they hope America will change its foreign policy. When I asked them if they think France would ever have an African president, they said, “No. France is not ready for that, but maybe after Obama there could be the possibility.” Overall, I have noticed that the French are very supportive of Obama.

Even with the busyness of classes, I still try to get in on the newest art shows in Paris. I was very excited to see the Andy Warhol exhibit at Le Grand Palais. It was a very extensive collection that included my favorite portraits of Debbie Harry, Mick Jagger, and Jackie O. I was shocked to see classic Warhol portraits of Mohammad Reza Shah Pahlavi and Farah Pahlavi. Warhol did the portraits in 1978, right before the chaos of the 1979 Iranian Islamic Revolution, when the Shah was exiled. Warhol’s powerful connection to the world of celebrities is both odd and intriguing. He was so consumed by fame and his own image, and his works glorify celebrities and politicians.

Not having classes on Fridays has allowed me to travel easily on the weekends. I visited my aunt in East Sussex, England and I got to spend one day in London, which really reminded me of Boston. The highlight of the visit was seeing my family and eating the best Indian food I have ever had at a restaurant on Brick Lane, in London’s east end, known for Indian cuisine and vintage stores.

Last weekend, my program took us to Normandie et Bretagne in Northern France. We visited Omaha Beach in Normandy, the location of D-Day. On a cliff overlooking Omaha Beach there is a cemetery dedicated to the 9,387 American soldiers that lost their lives on D-Day during World War II. We spent the night in Saint Malo, a beautiful fortified beach town on the coast of the English Channel. The next day, we visited Mont-Saint-Michel, a grand gothic abbey built in the 13th century on an island in the bay of the English Channel and known to be one of the seven wonders of the world. I was very content with this trip and it was great to see these very historically important sites.

I find it very interesting that Provence is the first province that the Romans conquered outside of Italy during the 2nd century B.C. to the 5th century A.D. In Provence, we visited Aix-en-Provence, Marseille, Cassis, Baux de Provence, and Avignon.

For three lovely days we stayed in Aix-en-Provence, a small city with medieval architecture known as the birthplace and home of artist Paul Cézanne. We visited Cézanne’s studio, a house with red tile roofs and shutters. The museum inside has conserved all of the painter’s belongings, including paint brushes, easels, and the vases and bowls that modeled his most famous paintings of apples. We also walked around his garden filled with Cyprus trees.

Marseille is the second largest city in France after Paris. We first visited the harbor, or Le Vieux Port, and there was a boardwalk with fishermen selling live catches. It was interesting to see the crowded outdoor markets, something that it has not yet been warm enough for in Paris. Next, we climbed up the San Francisco-like hills in our tour bus towards the church “Our Lady of the Guard,” a place of worship that has been known to bless the city of Marseille since 1214. Inside of the Basilica there is a statue of Mary and numerous mosaics and marble. The church is known for its diverse influences since over the years the pilgrims of Marseille have brought their own unique touch. The view from the hill—miles of beach and mountains circling around the Mediterranean architecture of Marseille was breathtaking.

My favorite visit was by far Cassis, where I walked on the beach looking onto the Mediterranean Sea during sunset. Oui c’était très picturesque ce n’est pas? I felt so calm walking on the beach and hunting for beach glass, a hobby for me since my childhood on the beaches of Santa Barbara. I felt so at home and comfortable in Provence because it was so similar to California in climate and landscape. I did not expect to see Palm trees in France—more like mustaches, small cars, and baguettes—and there’s plenty in Paris.

I am happy with my choice to study in Paris. It is the metropolitan lifestyle that I wanted to experience, but Provence is truly a special place that I recommend visiting. I hope to see the Provincial culture, Mediterranean Sea, and quaint towns again. ENCORE!

Being cold and wet, I was relieved to hear that we would be leaving the tower and going to an overpriced café to warm up. Our director Anne-Marie bought us all hot drinks and crêpes au chocolate! Who knew that Boston weather existed in Paris? Let me assure all you New Englanders that the weather is just as brutal here.

I took advantage of a clear sunny day this past Wednesday by walking around Montmartre with my friend Liz, an NYU student studying in Paris. The hill of Montmartre and Sacré Coeur are still my favorite places to visit. We walked up the hill and went to Chine Machine, a funky vintage store where I’ve found quite a few unique pieces, including a satin fuschia 1960s dress made in Poland. Later, we got some dessert at a cute little bakery, and my tarte au chocolate noire was more than blissful.

On Thursday evening, API took us to l’Opéra National Garnier pour le ballet des chorégraphes Lifar/ Petit/ Béjart. When I entered the opera house, I was mesmerized by the grandness of the building. My pictures will portray the wonderful architecture better than any description I could give.

C’était ma première fois que j’ai vu le ballet. There were three different ballet performances, and each section had a specific theme with coed dancers. The first performance was very traditional and the woman wore lovely white tutus, the next one reminded me of a Puritan love affair, and last was a modern interpretive dance. The latter was the only one I snuck a picture of, since photography was prohibited. Our box seats gave us a bird’s eye view of the dancing composition, and I was intrigued by the symmetry in the movements of the numerous shirtless male dancers surrounding the sole female dancer.

From what I have seen it seems to be just as much of an inconvenience for the French students, who have started teaching their own classes, and some of the French professors think striking faculty is hardly progressive and have continued teaching classes. Unfortunately, I did not have any of these professors. In the past month, I attended three classes at Paris VII; the James Bond cinema class, a French writing class, and a French grammar class where the teacher only came for five minutes to tell us apologetically that she would not be teaching class.

For the record, I really tried to hold back from ranting on this subject (most evident in my last post being February 4). I have accepted that I have no other choice but to attend Catho, since attaining college credit for this semester is my highest priority.

I will start classes on February 23, and one of my classes is Les Médias en France. There were no journalism classes offered at Paris VII so I am excited to have this new opportunity. My program has also insisted that Catho is a much better school, describing it as the equivalent of Boston College in Paris. Since higher education is free in France, only those who are higher middle class attend private colleges.

Over the weekend, I visited the Centre Pompidou an architectural anomaly known for its high-tech design of plastic tubes and colorful piping on the outside of the building. The Pompidou houses contemporary art galleries, theatre, cinema, and vast views of Paris—from the top floor I could see every important Parisian monument including Sacré Coeur, Notre-Dame, l’Hotel de Ville, and of course La Tour Eiffel. Each of these sparkled as I looked at my panoramic view of the city of lights.

The exhibits I saw were both intriguing and odd. The modern art movement was seen at its best with blank canvases and plastic blow up chairs. I appreciated the pieces that were intricately made designs from unlikely materials like bottle caps and coins. However, I was not amused by the video art that depicted an anonymous Muslim man’s chanting prayers. I do not understand how this could be labeled as someone else’s art? Here was a man just living his life. I wonder if this man knows that his singing is broadcast in Paris every day for thousands of people?

I have a strong interest in Arab and Muslim culture. As an Iranian-American, I am naturally drawn to learn more about my heritage. This led me to the Insitut du Monde Arabe, a museum devoted to the Middle East with various ancient artifacts including metalwork, ceramics, textiles, calligraphy, and carpets. Some of my favorites were the turquoise ceramic bowls from Iran and the carpets—whose woven patterns reminded me of the many carpets that decorate my home in Natick.

On a totally different note, my program took us out to the Cirque d’hiver Bouglione. I have never been to an American circus, but somehow I knew I was witnessing a French version. There were domestic cats jumping from pedestals and roller blading tricks straight from the 90’s. I did get to see tigers jumping through fiery hoops and men with clownish make-up. Overall, it was very entertaining. Je suis passée un bon weekend!

Grèves are another daily occurrence, which have affected my ability to attend class. The professors at Université Paris VII are striking for many reasons including increasing salaries and funding for research, and the structure of the university overall.

Classes were canceled all of last week, and today I attended my first class: Histoire et Esthetique de Cinéma, which focuses on James Bond films. The whole three hours were very intimidating since I was unfamiliar with the French vocabulary required to analyze films. Also, the professor is asking for an oral presentation in front of the other 50 students in the lecture hall and in French. Ah!? That doesn’t even happen at UMass, unless you are in a discussion section. We have a drop period for the next week, so I am not certain I will stay in this class.

So far none of my other classes have started. Last week was frustrating since I went to class only to discover that my professors were participating in the strike. This week I am hoping that classes will start so I can decide which classes I am taking for sure. I know that striking is a “normal” staple of French society—but I am not used to protests having such an impact.

Protesting is not just at school but everywhere in the streets of Paris. There always seems to be some kind of manifestation, or demonstration, on les Halles square near my apartment. Most recently, there has been a lot of commotion about the violence in Gaza. My adviser has recommended that all students stay away from the strikes in case things escalate. From a distance, I have heard the words Palestine and Israel beaucoup.

Also, this Thursday all public transportation and mostly all establishments will be closed because there is a national strike organized by the Socialist Party against Sarkozy’s policies and government. Liberal activism actually affects daily life in Paris et c’est normal? I will definitely need some time to get used to this.

The striking has been kind of bittersweet because I have gotten to prolong my tourism. This past week my friends and I visited the Catacombs or l’Ossuaire Municipal, where the bones of more than 6 million deceased French people rest. In the end of the 18th century, their bodies were transported underground from different cemeteries to make room for the budding city of Paris since the generations of the dead were beginning to overwhelm the living. The plagues, unsanitary burials, and mass graves of the time made Charles Axel Guillaumot lead the transportation of the dead to the abandoned mine tunnels of the Catacombs in 1788.

The whole experience was eerie, wet, and haunting. As I passed piles of ancient skulls and bones in the muddy tunnels… I wondered if I was in a scary movie or Paris?

The beauty of Paris truly is its varied history.

On a brighter note, we went to Montmartre on the same day. I was more than happy to be above ground and see the grand view of Paris from the hill of Montmartre. We visited the Dali Exhibit, which has more than 300 of the surrealist artist’s originals. I was so mesmerized by his work. This quote from Dali really made me appreciate surrealism in a new light:

“The surrealist object is not practical, it has no use other than to soften people, to exhaust them and to addle their brains. The surrealist object is made for honor; it exists only for the honor of the thought it contains.”

My favorite of Dali painting is Le Elephant de Triomphe. He makes the elephant appear more elegant than large since its legs are long and bony. There is something so odd and manipulative about this change. Also, elephants are my favorite animal so seeing them in a different shape captivates me. I enjoy the unpredictability of Dali, and his crazy mustache of course—bien sûr!

With my program, Academic Programs International, me and 14 other girls mostly from UMass and other colleges have visited quite an array of tourist havens.

Our first day in Paris, January 4, was spent on le Bateau Mouche Tour or an hour-long boat ride on the Seine. I loved seeing the Parisian architecture and the striking view of La Tour Eiffel, which for me initially felt like seeing a long admired celebrity for the first time. Having la Seine flowing in the middle of la ville adds a natural component to an otherwise urban environment.

Je l’aime!

After moving into our dorms, studettes, or housing with host families, on January 6 we did a walking tour of le Marais, a very scenic area known for its architecture (mansions where the rich and famous of the Renaissance era lived), the Picasso Museum, and small shops and restaurants. Since our walk through the Marais was in a chilling 30 degrees, it made me long for the perfect spring day, which I would spend exploring the small stoned streets and settling in an outdoor café.

On January 7, we visited the Musée d’Orsay, which I already discussed, so no déjà vous pour toi. Then on January 8^th, we began our first intensive French session at Université de Paris VII- Denis Diderot. I really like my professor Madame Martin, unlike most French people she speaks slowly and clearly.

On le vendredi 9 janvier, we visited la Louvre, the largest museum in all of Paris. It is free to students every Friday night after 6 p.m., which made our visit crowded but nevertheless spectacular. The Louvre’s entrance with the pyramid and waterfalls makes any visitor know that they are about to embark in a special adventure. We had a guided tour that lasted two hours (I still have much to see). The highlights included a grand Sphinx from Ancient Egypt, Greek and Roman statues from the third millennium BC up to the 6^th century AD (my favorite being La Venus de Milo whose arms were never located during the excavation), and paintings from l’école français et espagnole.

The Louvre is most known for having the Mona Lisa or La Jaconde. As I first entered the exhibit, I didn’t even see the Mona Lisa because the painting is much smaller than expected and a large crowd was huddled in front of her. Sometimes I wonder why the Mona Lisa is so famous? But I instantly answered my own question with just a glimpse. There is something so peculiar about those eyes—that watch you as you walk past her (trust me I tried it a couple times and it’s true).

This weekend we visited the Chateau de Chantilly—yes my tourism continues! Chantilly is about an hour trip from Paris. The castle has lavish rooms with garnished golden walls and murals painted on the ceilings. The last inhabitant of the castle was le duc d’Aumale. There are grand halls with furniture that is more than antique, and smells like French bureaucrats…I might of imagined this. There are many paintings and my favorite was a portrait of Marie Antoinette painted by Fraçois Hubert in 1727 because it confirms that she looks nothing like Kirsten Dunst.

I said that I will be a tourist for the extent of my visit—but now I would like to distinguish that there are different degrees of being a “tourist”. For instance I don’t wear Hawaiian shirts and binoculars. In Paris fashion that would be a no-no, les Parisians est très chic.

I am officially in my apartment in the premier arrondissement, meaning I am in the middle of Paris. Ma chambre est très petite. There is a twin sized bed that pulls out from the wall, a kitchenette (whose sink is used for both cooking and brushing my teeth), a shower in the corner of the room, a small table used as my kitchen table and desk, and the bathroom is in the hallway. Adapting to my apartment has come pretty smoothly. I look at having everything together as a convenience instead of living in small quarters. This is exactly where I want to be, and I have my own apartment in the middle of a very metropolitan area with restaurants, cafés, and boutiques.

I’m a 15 minute walk from la Louvre and a 20 minute walk from the Musée d’Orsay, which we visited today. C’est très magnifique. I saw many masterpieces including Van Gogh’s most famous self-portrait, many of Monet’s famous water lillies, and Renoir’s wonderful painting of a crowd dancing at the Bal du Moulin de la Galette. It was so surreal seeing these works in detail.

My awe of the la Tour Eiffel has not stopped after being here almost a week. It is just so epic. Every night at 8 p.m. the tower lights up and sparkles. The light show was initially  just for New Year’s Eve, but Parisians requested to make it a permanent staple of the city in 2000 and why not?

My language barrier makes me feel naïve about this culture and I am so curious. Every time I speak to a French person I learn something. When I was in the McDonald’s (the only place close to my apartment with free wireless) two high school students were nice enough to talk to me. I got to practice my French on them and they got to practice their English on me. Unfortunately, the outlet or une prise electrique ne marche pas, but at least I learned what the word for plug is in French, une prise. Last night a man sitting next to me, asked me where I was from and before I could reply he guessed California. This was right on, since I did grow up in California. He then brought up Obama’s victory. I replied, “J’ai voté pour Obama!” He was très content. I really loved this moment because we both shared the hope of seeing some change in the U.S., regardless of where we were from.

As I travel the metro, walk past chic cafés, smell cigarette smoke, hear very fast French, and see the generally stylish Parisians it hits me–I’m here. I have so much yet to discover and learn about Paris.

I am in a limbo of “Paris Oui ou Non?” I have so many questions for you Paris—and I am not getting any definite answers. Where will I be living? Will I be able to understand my fully French classes? Will I be able to figure out the metro system? Will I be able to meet other French students or will I be snubbed?

I know these are things that I will soon know… the other side of me is so excited. I want to explore the city’s cafés, restaurants, boutiques, and night life. I want to prove to myself that I am an independent and city savvy human being.

For now, I am going to savor my last days in Amherst—the perfect college town. I am finally done with my classes and exams after a jam packed stressful week. I am looking forward to seeing my friends again. I have set up goodbye lunches with most of my close friends at our favorite places: Lone Wolf and Amanouz Café in Northampton. I also have to go to all my favorite coffee shops, Rao’s and The Black Sheep.

Well, hopefully I will have a BON VOYAGE.